The Jewellery Loop

Jewellery Gems - February 2012

2012-02-29T06:54:00.000-08:00

For many months now I have been collecting images of jewellery that I love, made by designers I admire and posting them on my daily Tumblr. My aim was to create an on-line treasure trove, where those that share my passion could browse and hopefully stumble upon something captivating each day. Looking through my archive recently, I resolved to showcase my hoard at the end of each month and thank once again the talents I have featured, for allowing me to share their beautiful creations.

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Deci

Tomasz Donocik

Ana de Costa for Chavin

Marianne Anderson

Solange Azagury-Partridge

Jessica Flinn

Imogen Belfield

Kimberley Selwood

Kate Dumbleton

Elizabeth Humble

Kiki McDonough

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Perfect Proposal - Part One

2012-01-21T12:47:00.000-08:00

In my role as a jewellery consultant I have advised many couples choosing engagement rings and have always taken great pleasure in this aspect of my work. Listening to their initial ideas, narrowing down the perfect design and deciding on gemstones is never a chore. And bringing their vision to life, with the help of a clever craftsperson or two, is a job I honestly relish. The nervous boyfriend is a firm favourite of mine. Any man anxious enough to please his (fingers crossed) bride-to-be that he contacts me, is one worth keeping as far as I'm concerned and deserving of an answer in the affirmative.

So now imagine my utter delight when I received an email from the partner of a very dear friend, asking me to source an engagement ring for her. He felt sure that I'd know what she'd like and trusted me to track down a blinder. No pressure then! If ever there was a time when I needed to get this right it was now. If my friend didn't like it, I'd not only be letting her down but her partner too and we'd all end up feeling like I didn't really know her at all.

So where to begin? Well, I could certainly start by skipping the consultation stage. For the lone male client I've developed a long list of careful questions about their lucky lady (in the style of Mr & Mrs but without the glaring and disappointment) so that I might build up an idea of what she'd like. No-one ever knows his answers except me, but the results of these directly influence the advice I give and ultimately the choices that are made. It is probably true to say that the better a client knows his partner, the closer to her dream ring we get, but absolutely no-one ends up with a consolation prize. In this case I already knew my friend's sense of style, favourite colour, her skin tone, job, physique etc. I was at an advantage from the start and so we were able to move pretty swiftly onto the matter of budget. Now I am not at liberty to divulge the figure to you my friends, promising always to be discreet in money matters, but suffice to say it was not too shabby and yet still presented me with a challenge.

I had a style of ring in mind from the start. Fortunately my friend's partner liked the idea of it and was happy to use this as a starting point. Happily I'd had a conversation with my friend not so long before about my own engagement ring. She'd commented on how much she liked the yellow gold and the fact that I'd chosen a gemstone over a diamond. This gave me valuable insight into her taste and allowed me to focus in on the right materials from the start. So it was to be a coloured gemstone set in yellow gold, that much was certain and being a lover of all things vintage, I thought she'd adore a deco style. So this is how a plan was hatched and I was unleashed onto the streets of London to seek out a treasure worthy of my wonderful friend.

To be continued...

If you would like further information about my consultancy services, please email
ericabiro@btconnect.com

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A Fair Trade

2011-12-28T16:46:00.000-08:00

Christmas is supposedly the season when we turn our attention towards others and enjoy bestowing presents on our loved ones and charitable acts upon needy strangers. But at a time when many of us are watching every penny, how many are prepared to spend a little extra buying Fairtrade goods to contribute in making a permanent improvement to the lives of others? In the supermarket a few days ago I witnessed an extraordinary amount of food being bought to cover what amounts to be a couple of days of gluttony. If every family there had selected only one Fairtrade item, the additional cost on each bill would have been barely noticeable but the resulting impact would arguably have been worth the extra few pence. (Where I shopped the Fairtrade bananas were 39p more than the standard bunch). Regardless of the time of year, during your weekly food shop do you choose Organic (better for you), Value (better for your pocket and therefore you again), or do you take the altruistic approach and go for Fairtrade (better for the people in the production process). I asked some friends about their shopping habits and where their priorities lay in these tough times. Just over half admitted that they were more concerned about providing for their own family and making the most of their resources by shopping carefully, than supporting Fairtrade. Knowing them personally, I can vouch for their being generous people that are genuinely feeling 'the pinch.' The others told me that so long as the price was not ludicrously more, they were prepared to spend the extra to make the difference.

The notion of Fairtrade is not limited to the food industry only. Who'd have thought that we'd have the same choices to make when buying jewellery?In recent years, the jewellery industry has come under close scrutiny from jewellers concerned about the questionable practises and conditions for workers in the diamond and gold mines. Harriet Kelsall is one such jeweller that has made it her business to involve herself in the process of making a change. Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design was established in 1998 and quickly became the UK's leading bespoke jewellery design company, at a time when there was very limited access to such a service. She specialises in custom making jewellery and engagement rings to suit each customer's specifications and is particularly well known for the inspiring stories behind each of her pieces.

When Fairtrade gold was launched in February 2011, Harriet was one of the first jewellers to be given access to use it and in September she became the first independent jeweller to be certificated by the Responsible Jewellery Council. I spoke to her about how important these accolades were to her. "Ethics are very important to me. When I started my business I'd to go into gemstone suppliers and say things like, "Can you tell me about how this gemstone was mined and if everyone was treated OK?’ They laughed in my face and told me that I was in the wrong industry for "that hippy crap". However, I kept strong and kept asking questions. Eventually I started getting better and better answers because I wasn’t the only one asking. I think that asking questions regularly can be quite powerful. Gradually things are improving."

I asked Harriet to explain the role of the Fairtrade Foundation within the jewellery industry. "The Fairtrade Foundation are a non-profit organisation who strive to transform the chains of trade and the lives of the workers. They have set up a chain from several gold mines, all the way through to the end consumers. This is carefully monitored every step of the way and is independently verified too. Fairtrade gold is all about fair terms of trade for workers in the developing world; better working conditions, local sustainability, and fairer prices for the miners. The way that it works is that if a customer chooses Fairtrade gold they will pay the standard price for the gold plus a ‘premium’ (currently set at about £3 per gram). This premium goes directly back to the miners so that they get a fair price for their gold and get to have a say in what the community money is spent on too. For example a bus might be bought so that the children can get to school."

So just how much can we expect to pay for a Fairtrade gold ring in comparison with standard gold? Harriet explained that due to very high associated charges it could cost anything between £60-£80 or perhaps even more. Harriet recognises that not all of her customers are able to absorb this extra cost and also told me that if every single artisan miner in the world was on the Fairtrade scheme, they could only actually fulfil about 20% of the worlds demand for gold. This, along with her need to use other materials not covered by the Fairtrade scheme, is what made being a member of the Responsible Jewellery Council so important to her. "Basically we have to clean up the rest of the industry too – whichever way you look at it. The more of us that can be part of the RJC and help to move things forward in this direction, the better."

So the burning question I put to you is this: would you compromise on the size of the diamond in your engagement ring to put the money saved into having it made in Fairtrade gold?

All images are designed and hand crafted at Harriet Kelsall Jewellery Design.

http://www.hkjewellery.co.uk

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A Whole Lot of Liz

2011-11-30T15:56:00.000-08:00

It was a Saturday morning in September much like any other, except that unexpected sunshine lit up London in such a glorious autumnal way that I felt glad to be out of bed and appreciating it, despite the early hour. Without any real encouragement my daughter had decided to join me too, making the morning all the more enjoyable. We emerged from the underground, blinking into the sunlight and took a stroll along Piccadilly, happy to be witnessing the city waking up. St James' was eerily quiet as shopkeepers still snoozed and although we would without a doubt have window shopped at any other time, we were far too swept up in the excitement of reaching our destination to be distracted.

Elizabeth Taylor, an old-school star and iconic actress that embodied the glamour of Hollywood, died in March at the age of 79 leaving her family riches beyond the imagination. Prior to their auction at Christie's New York in December, an exhibition of selected pieces from her astounding art, couture and jewellery collections are touring the world, allowing anyone interested a chance to view them before they are fragmented forever.

I didn't have to be told twice. As I entered Christie's beautiful London building, I was aware that I was about to witness a once in a lifetime peek at the private possessions of an incredible collector. I was not however, prepared for the jaw dropping jewellery that dazzled the room. Gigantic gem set jewels were held captive within spot-lit glass cases. The 33.19 carat Taylor diamond ring, the breathtaking Taj Mahal pendant and an exquisitely enamelled Art Nouveau butterfly brooch (my personal favourite) were amongst the most eye catching.

Pieces of such importance and historical value such as La Peregrina Pearl attracted a swarm of admirers, but I have sharp elbows and was determined to achieve the optimum view. It was here that I met David Warren, Christie's resident jewellery expert. He was busy dispelling the myth that the pearl once belonged to Queen Mary Tudor AKA Bloody Mary (as I had reported in an earlier blog). Apparently this pearl was not discovered until after her death and therefore couldn't possibly have belonged to her. Unfortunately, despite my further research I could not find a single source that agreed with him. In fact, according to Christie's own website the ownership of the pearl was once with Phillip II of Spain. This was in fact Mary Tudor's husband. Warren was at pains to point out that if you care to inspect any painting of Queen Mary wearing her necklace, the pearl is clearly not the same shape as Taylor's. I asked if the artist may have been inaccurate, he assured me that a painting of a monarch wearing State regalia during that period would have been painstakingly perfect.

Whatever you choose to believe, the necklace made by Cartier to showcase La Peregrina pearl is remarkably similar to that of Queen Mary's in the painting, which may be why it could have been assumed to be the same. To complicate matters further, there is also a rumour that before the necklace was created and the pearl was still loose, Taylor found her dog chewing on it and had to have the pearl peeled to remove the damage. A good enough reason for the difference in shape. In her book, 'My Love Affair with Jewelry' however, Taylor writes, 'inside his mouth was the most perfect pearl in the world. It was—thank God—not scratched.' Curiouser and curiouser.

Whoever ends up with this extraordinary pearl when it goes to auction may never be certain of its true provenance, but regardless, it remains one of the largest symmetrical pearls ever found to this day. Expected to reach in the region of $2,000,000 - $3,000,000 I imagine we may see a certain WAG wearing it some time soon. The Christie's staff I mentioned this to looked suitably horrified.

If you would like to own your own little piece of history, some 950 of Taylor’s more affordable belongings are to be sold in an online auction from 3rd - 17th December.

Go to www.christies.com and let the shopping commence!

La Peregrina

Bloody Mary

Lost in Lace

2011-09-16T05:59:00.000-07:00

International Jewellery London (or IJL as it's known) is by far the most important annual event on the jewellery calendar and one that I never miss. Each September the vast Earls Court Exhibition Centre is rammed to the rafters with all things jewellery-related. As it is a trade event, most of the general public are completely oblivious to the treasures that are contained there. Security must be sizzling hot.

A vast array of semi precious beads hang in strands from hooks, as suppliers from around the world display their wares. Rows of white boxes containing precious gemstones line long tables, awaiting inspection. The biggest names in jewellery display their collections, eager to extract orders from the browsing buyers. Tool companies sell new innovations and seminars are held on all manner of topics. But the best section by far has to be the Design Gallery. Here the up-and-coming jostle for attention and the competition is fierce. One designer who caught my eye this year was Julia Burness. In amongst the current craze for friendship bracelets, spiders, swallows and filigree key pendants (of which there were heaps) her 'Lost Lace' collection stood out by being bold but retaining a fragility that prompted me to take a closer look.

I'm glad I did because as a result I discovered a gem and Julia has kindly agreed to be interviewed for The Jewellery Loop.

The Jewellery Loop: What is your background, where were you brought up and did this have any bearing on your decision to become a jewellery designer?

Julia Burness: I was brought up in London by a wonderfully female-heavy family, all of whom are extremely individual and love design. This certainly had a great influence on my tastes. I then went on to study Archaeology which allowed me to literally spend days gazing at ancient jewellery in the British Museum. I finally chose to work in a sensible profession as a recruitment consultant but after five years of sitting behind a computer, I made the decision to change my career and do something creative. It was then that I went back to university and discovered my love of jewellery making.

TJL: When did you graduate and what discipline did you study there?

JB: I took the foundation course in Jewellery Design and Silversmithing at Sir John Cass, London Metropolitan University for two years, which was a full time course and finished in June 2010.

TJL: In a time when it seems that everyone wants to be a jewellery designer, how important do you think a formal training is?

JB: I think it depends from person to person whether they need formal training. I definitely benefited from it, my drawing skills were pretty much non-existent before and we had access to fantastic work shops and the opportunity to learn about computer design. However there are people who seem to pick things up naturally and if someone is particularly good for example at CAD or sculpting in wax, then they could go on to make beautiful jewellery without any training. To be honest I've learnt a lot simply from being adventurous and making mistakes on my own.

TJL: Did you set your own business up straight out of uni or did you work elsewhere first?

JB: After Sir John Cass I went on to work in a metal casting office which taught me a huge amount about what could be cast, giving me a licence to be more experimental than I had dared to be before.

TLJ: In tough times such as these, do you think people place more importance on selecting a single quality item or try to get more for their money?

JB: People are definitely looking for a bargain, however there are definitely still people out there who surprise me and will happily pay higher prices for quality, thank goodness.

TJL: What was the inspiration for your Lost Lace collection?

JB: The inspiration for the Lost Lace collection was the idea of bringing beautiful pieces from the past into the present. I literally scour the markets for interesting pieces of vintage lace to use in my work.

TJL: What sort of person buys your jewellery and when would they wear it?

JB: I find that my lace pieces attract very artistic women who love to make a statement with their jewellery. Men who are buying for women tend to go for the safer options with my work. I make the jewellery to be worn for any event day or night as people seem to dress very individually these days - it is less about dress codes and more about the style in which they wear things. My whole ethos is about comfort as well as beauty.

TJL: Do you have any celebrity clients and who would you like to see wearing your jewellery?

JB: My jewellery has been worn by a few celebrities; Alice Gold, Eliza Doolittle and the stunning Amber Atherton. There are so many beautiful women out there, I think Rachel Weisz is particularly gorgeous and has a calm and down to earth image, seeing my work on her would be very nice indeed.

TJL: What has been your proudest achievement to date?

JB: I have worked really hard to get to the stage where I can now call myself a designer/maker with my own business - three years ago I would never have believed it. I suppose so far my proudest moment has been when I was chosen for the One Year On show at New Designers in July this year. I was exhibiting amongst other designer/makers that I thoroughly admire and I was able to sit back for a moment and consider the fact that my work had been selected, and it did indeed make me proud.

TJL: What would you like to achieve over the next three years and how do you see your brand developing?

JB: There is a lot I would like to achieve over the next three years, to pin it down is difficult. I would like to have a large returning client base and to have a presence in some major UK stores. With regards to the brand, I absolutely love the 'cool Britannia' label and I hope to see the brand developing more and more with that edge. It is important to me that the jewellery is made in England at every step of the way and this will continue to be the case - even when it gets so busy that I will no doubt need help making it!

We imagine that time will not be far away and wish Julia Burness Jewellery every success. Find her collections at www.juliaburnessjewellery.com

Large lace sterling silver bespoke cuff

'Mariska' 18ct gold plated lace cuff

Bespoke silver epaulettes

Gold plated lace necklace

'Marie-Louise' silver lace ring

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Say My Name

2011-08-31T06:52:00.000-07:00

Every now and again a jewellery trend sashays onto the scene that shows no sign of being shaken off. The 'name' necklace is one of those. The classic nameplate featuring curly cursive, spells out your moniker in precious metal and hangs round your neck like a luxury label. But they come in many different guises. Currently, coloured acrylic is the coolest craze.

I'm certain that most women have owned one at some point in their lives. Some of us cannot shake the addiction and seem to enjoy sharing this personal information at a glance. Others grow out of the desire for instant recognition and prefer to keep a lower profile. Some merely swap a full name for a more understated initial, teasing onlookers with a guessing game. I have owned two so far and both were bought on childhood holidays. The first had my name hand-written on a pebble pendant. The second had silver seventies-style letters dangling from a bar.

When actress Sarah Jessica Parker wore a classic gold 'Carrie' nameplate on Sex And The City, sales rocketed overnight. It instantly became covetable after years of being thought of as an adolescent accessory and a teeny bit tasteless. Celebrities that love the look have nothing to lose. Everyone knows their name anyway. Those struggling up the C-list are only too happy to confirm that it is indeed them, as puzzled-looking people try to place their face. Those further up the celebrity food-chain rarely use public transport and so avoid the inevitable situation where a grinning weirdo mutters your name across the carriage, as you squirm and try to avoid eye contact.

Another situation where name necklaces can be a nightmare is on a night out. By allowing all of those around you access to an instant introduction, some may say you are almost inviting unwelcome attention. On the other hand, it may be a great way to get a conversation started and meet new people.

Whichever way you look at it they are here to stay. So go ahead and say my name.

Sarah Jessica Parker wearing 'Carrie'

Paris Hilton

Britney & Madonna wearing their initials.

The late, great Amy Winehouse

Tatty Devine does perspex

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Factory Girl

2011-08-12T06:06:00.000-07:00

Quite some time ago, but not nearly long enough for the memory of it to have faded at all, I was made redundant the week before Christmas. At the time I didn't know whether to laugh or cry, so incredulous was I at the timing of such a shocker, but simultaneously feeling an overwhelming sense of relief. No more child-care issues, no delayed train journeys in the freezing cold, no anxiety about getting my Christmas shopping done and best of all, not having to deal with the witch I'd been working for any longer. Of course come the new year I realised what a terrible time it really was to be job-hunting, but I began none-the-less to put my feelers out.

With the credit crunch just beginning to bite, it felt like an eternity before anything at all came up and it took until May for me to land a job. Whilst it was far from my ideal role, for the time-being it had to do. I'd never experienced working in a factory environment before and can't say I'd like to again, but it opened my eyes to an area of the jewellery industry I never thought I'd ever see. The work I did was easy and I enjoyed the company of my colleagues, so I got on with it and was grateful to have a job. There were only two of us in production, myself and a lovely lady in her sixties who had worked there since the company began. She had watched it grow from a box bedroom start-up to a market leader in the accessories sector.

Unfortunately we'd spend our days in an atmosphere of stress and tension, gluing crystals into jewellery bases that had been manufactured in the Far East. A large proportion of our time was spent wading through tray after tray of sub-standard rejects, mostly due to scratches and bubbles in the plating. This was problematic given the work-rate we were expected to achieve and led to some frustration. Aside from us there were only two other full-time workers. It was their job to package the completed items ready for final quality control checks by management. This was tedious and repetitive and I know because I often got roped into helping them when a rush order was on. And so in an attempt to stave off insanity the four of us became a support system for one another, rallying round when one of us felt down, covering for each other when necessary and listening when we needed to vent. I wouldn't have lasted a day without them.

The rest of the space was filled by casual workers and they greatly outnumbered us. They were almost all Chinese students recruited from the local university. This was no accident. The Production Manager had worked in factories in the Far East and admired their efficiency. The students worked in silence and their tasks were timed. Too slow and they would go. They often spoke little English and he would be exasperated when trying to explain to them their mundane tasks.

Until this point I had naively imagined that mass produced jewellery would arrive in the UK and be instantly dispatched to customers around the country. It hadn't occured to me that a minimal amount of finishing here would allow manufacurers to claim the items were made in the UK - and they could stick a label on saying so. I had obviously led a very sheltered work-life so far, being employed by designers with relatively small businesses. There we would usually sit around a large table, chatting and drinking tea whilst we worked. We would be timed to a certain extent, but the atmosphere was almost always relaxed and no-one would question how many times we used the bathroom.

My factory days are long gone but my colleagues are all still there. With two of them fast approaching retirement, opportunities for change did not present themselves so readily as they did for me. I am grateful both for the enlightening experience, the friends I made and for not having to work there any longer.

Due to the nature of this post I cannot attach any illustrative images.

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Swanning Along

2011-07-26T03:13:00.000-07:00

There is a pub near my childhood home called the Swan Inn. The locals call it The Duck in such a deadpan way that I actually thought that was what it was called, until I found myself in there one day and the penny dropped. It is the sort of back-street pub where you can buy anything. I was offered a leg of lamb and a pair of trainers on my last visit, but being a vegetarian with an aversion to the gym both where useless to me.

Swans seem to be a reoccurring theme in my life. My earliest memory of a trip to the theatre was to see that most mesmerising of ballets, Swan Lake. I've seen many productions of it since, but the spectacle of the swans sweeping in is always so breath-taking that I am immediately transported back to that first magical moment when I watched, wide-eyed as a child. I'm totally obsessed with their head-dresses - feathers fanning out flat against the head from a central twinkling tiara - an absolute classic that has not been altered much since the first ever production.

My engagement ring features two swans. Their heads nuzzle up to the bezel and their bodies become the shank. My husband designed it and told me when he gave it to me that swans take only one partner for life. I know! So do pigeons I'm told, so I'm grateful for obvious reasons that he went with swans. Unlike pigeons, swans are often used in romantic imagery - their necks actually form a heart-shape when you see two face-to-face and you don't get much more romantic than that. Two sugar swans sat on top of our wedding cake in exactly that way and a silver frame with entwining swans holds a photo of our big day. I told you I had a theme.

When pregnant with our first child my husband took me to see Swan Lake at the Royal Albert Hall. A few weeks later, when still undecided about baby's middle name, we remembered the Swan Princess, 'Odette.' Perfect. Well, perfect until Barbie of Swan Lake came out and we had to buy the Odette costume and all things related and no-one at school would believe it was her second name, much to her exasperation! Now almost twelve, our little cygnet is slowly transforming into a beautiful swan. Too young for full-on bling and way too old for baby bracelets, accessorising during this transitional period can be a nightmare. So to my delight, when in Covent Garden last week, I came across the most amazing collection of swan-themed jewellery at Les Nereides. Funky, chunky, not too precious and robust enough to withstand a fairly boisterous pre-teen. OK, a little on the pricey side but justified by my sharing with her - well, if your going to share a theme you can surely share a little jewellery too.

Les Nereides

Natalie Portman as Odile in The Black Swan

Natasha Oughtred as Odette in Swan Lake

Swan Lake

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Watch It

2011-07-13T07:06:00.000-07:00

Having recently celebrated a significant birthday, I was lucky enough to receive a stunning watch from my much congratulated husband. In the absolute absence of a heavy-handed hint he'd hunted down the perfect timepiece, much to my surprise and delight. As my friends openly admired his taste and my good fortune, their men were made to squirm uncomfortably, knowing that their spouses sideways glances and over-loud compliments could not be ignored without consequence. Expectations would now most certainly be high. Not sure how popular this is going to make my husband with them, but he's going down a storm with me.

In an ideal world we would all have a selection of watches. They would match our outfits, our moods, different occasions and our other jewellery. I have a friend who once worked for a watch brand and was lucky enough to receive a generous discount. Now that is a lady with a lot of watches. Often they are a key element to the success of her look - adding a splash of colour or a quirky touch - and are undoubtedly, very carefully selected from her enviable collection. But for the majority of us a watch falls into one of two categories. The 'day watch' - whether it be classic and understated or over-sized and fashion forward - is undeniably an essential item. Then there is the 'dress watch' - its sleeker, glitzier counterpart - the sophisticated older sister of the watch family. A luxury or a must-have? Now I have one I would call it a must-have, but during the times when I have been without I simply went watch-free. Who wants to see the time tick away when you're out having fun anyway?

A watch can be a difficult item to get right for many reasons. There is the question of colour. If you are married, should the metal match that of your wedding band? I would say yes - if you intend to wear it on your left wrist as most of us do. Should a bride wear a watch? I would say no - not unless it is as exquisite as her dress anyway. A delicate, diamond dress watch could just about swing it. Or an intricate, antique heirloom. A formal evening occasion definitely demands a more glamorous watch and what kind of watch (if any) do you wear to the beach? I clearly remember trying to protect my Gucci from potential sticky fingers, sand and suncream at the seaside, with limited success. Waterproof watches are great, but who wants a wrist-wide stripe of untanned skin after a hard day's sunbathing? Best left at the bottom of a beach bag. How about a brightly coloured watch, to match the current 'blocking' obession of the season? Well my advise would be, not unless you want to look like a children's presenter. The leading brand is called 'Toy Watch' for a reason - the hint is in the name.

The truth is that you'll never find a one-watch-fits-all solution. Best to view them as you would do the rest of your wardrobe - as an ever expanding collection of items bought to cover a myriad of occasions.

My new watch.

Chavvy chic?

The classic.

My evening choice.

Beware of the Toy!

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This Rocks

2011-06-30T17:53:00.000-07:00

If like me you love a bit of jewellery-related gossip (particularly with a celebrity twist) what could be more entertaining than the Kate Moss engagement ring fiasco?

It was reported that Moss flipped out at Glastonbury whilst watching fiance Jamie Hince playing with The Kills last weekend. Realising her £14000 ring was missing, she had all her friends on their hands and knees in the mud searching for it while she stood by hyperventilating in her Hunters. I think I would have freaked too if I'd paid for it myself. According to rumour, Hince had used the money that Moss had given him to build a recording studio, to commission a ring for her instead. Knowing of her fascination with Zelda Phillips (twenties icon and wife of novelist F.Scott Fitzgerald) Hince tried to procure her vintage engagement ring as a wildly romantic gesture, but ended up only finding drawings of the original. Undeterred he approached jeweller S.J.Phillips to recreate a similar sparkler. It seemed to do the trick as he and Kate are due to tie the knot today (my birthday!).

With such sentiment behind the ring it was little wonder that Kate had a momentary meltdown when it went astray. Sobbing hours later in the loo's - must have been in V.I.P. because anyone who's been to Glastonbury will tell you that the loo's are not somewhere you hang out any longer than humanly possible, regardless of your state of mind - she discovered the ring at the bottom of her bag buried beneath some tissues, much to her own amusement.

I don't know of anyone else who has paid for their own engagement ring, or at least no-one I know has admitted to coughing up. I do know someone though that threatened to go and buy one for herself if none was forthcoming. Her naked finger wrapped round the handle of a pram had become too much to bear, so much so that she would have shopped at Argos to relieve the situation. I'm sorry but nothing in the world would drag me into that carpeted corner. Her partner, suitably horrified at the prospect of her humiliating him with an Elizabeth Duke monstrosity, proposed within the week with a modest but much less mortifying ring.

I have come across several newly-weds who have lost their engagement rings on honeymoon. A result of pre-wedding dieting and frolicking in the sea - a potentially devastating combination. Beaches and bling don't mix, so stick it in the safe and splash about (and whatever else) without worrying. In light of recent events Ms Moss may be best advised to do the same.

The Jewellery Loop would like to wish Kate Moss and Jamie Hince love and light.

Kate Moss wearing THE engagement ring.

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In With The Old

2011-06-20T16:03:00.000-07:00

It's a joy to stumble across a new designer I admire and I did exactly that when I visited 'Jewel East' recently. As part of London Jewellery Week, a group of designers were showing their work at Spitalfields Market and I went along to have a browse. My day started badly when I was practically chased from one stall for looking at a bracelet 'too closely'. If the designer in question is reading this I would like to point out that a lobster clasp is not a trade secret.

Things picked up remarkably however, when I discovered the wonderful 'Xi designs'. Carefully crafted from an eclectic mix of vintage components, the collection was an exciting blend of elegant and edgy. It most definitely appealed to the magpie in me and I was delighted when designer/maker Xiomara Orriols agreed to be interviewed for my blog.

The Jewellery Loop : Where were you brought up and where are you based now?

Xiomara Orriols : I was brought up in the Ladbroke Grove area of West London but I’m now based in Shepherds Bush and I have a gorgeous work studio near Chiswick. I absolutely LOVE London and all the inspiration and opportunity it holds!

TJL : What is your background and do you think this has influenced your work?

XO : My background has influenced me immensely. My father is from Venezuela and his grandmother was a very famous opera singer in the 1920's. Her aunties use to create all her costumes and a couple of years ago I was given pieces of her costumes and photo’s, which inspired me to combine textiles with metals.

TJL : Where did you study and how did you get into jewellery-making?

XO : I studied at Chelsea college of Art and Design, left with a First Class degree in Textile Design and then went to work with London fashion designer Ray Harris. There I developed my knowledge of vintage textiles, colour and texture combinations and attention to detail. My main role included embellishing fabrics and adding that something special to his garments, scarves and accessories.
When I found myself unemployed for 5 months (after going away travelling and coming back to the recession - bad timing!!!) I decided to start a business of my own, which is something I'd always longed to do. I looked for a way of combining my textile background, my love of visiting antique markets and a way of using all the amazing finds I had collected over the years. My main inspiration came from the collection of intricate embroidery pieces that had been passed down to me through my family. They looked amazing against my other treasures and so I began creating. After some very positive feedback from friends and family I realised this could develop into a business. I approached a business advisor for help with a start-up plan and so 'Xi Designs' was born in November 2009!

TJL : How long have you been incorporating vintage components into your work?

XO : Xi designs was born through the inspiration of old items, so it always seemed fitting to use vintage and antique components in all our jewellery from day one. I absolutely love all things vintage and the potential that old items hold in being re-used, redeveloped and recycled to create new pieces that fit in with modern trends and styles. I love being able to give them a new lease of life and create something beautiful.

TJL : With the current obsession with all things vintage do you find them difficult to source?

XO : I have many good sources. I have the odd day when I feel like 'vintage is running out!' but then I'll come across a lovely old lady with a stall full of gems.

TJL : I imagine that owing to the nature of the materials you use that all your pieces are ‘one-off’s’ – does this make it difficult to part with them and is there a piece that you just had to keep?

XO : Yes, sometimes I really want to keep them all but I must think business! I have a necklace I kept from when I first started which has a beautiful Christian Dior earring attached to it and I just can't part with it.

TJL : Your design process must be pretty organic, being so dependent on the vintage pieces you have found – do you find this liberating or frustrating?

XO : Very liberating! I have never been one to design with sketches. I'm a very visual person and love working with textures, colours and surfaces, combining and layering them to get the perfect combinations. Often when I find a piece I know exactly how I will use it and what I will mix it with from my studio of treasure. It is my ideal way of working!

TJL : Your pieces are very bold - what sort of person do you think buys your work and when would you imagine them wearing it?

XO : My jewellery attracts a trendy crowd, a confident girl with an eye for something original and slightly eccentric, yet sophisticated. A girl who doesn't keep things 'for special,' but dresses up for every occasion!

TJL : Do you have any celebrity clients?

XO : Fearne Cotton has been a fan from day one.

TJL : What has been the proudest achievement of your career so far?

XO : My proudest achievement to date was giving a presentation at the French Embassy. I take part in 'Eclat de Mode,' a Fashion Jewellery show in Paris twice a year and was chosen to speak as one of their success stories. I felt very proud about how far Xi designs had come in quite a short amount of time and I was up there with some well-established big names!

I am not at all surprised that Xi designs is storming the scene and wish Xiomara every success with her business. Find her collections at http://www.xidesigns.co.uk/

The one she couldn't part with.

Blooming Marvelous necklace £90

Black Forest bracelet £45

Spring Leaf necklace £90

Xiomara's stunning family heirlooms.

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Round and Round the Garden

2011-06-11T17:57:00.000-07:00

Hatton Garden, London's thriving jewellery quarter nestles neatly between Clerkenwell, Holborn and Farringdon. A concentration of 800 jewellery-related businesses here, form a community that dates back to the fourteenth century. The area occupies what was once the grand estate of Ely Palace, built in 1290 as the London residence of the Bishops of Ely, which stood on what is now Ely Place. It takes its name from Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Chancellor of England and suspected lover of Queen Elizabeth I, who gave him possession of the Palace and its gardens in the 1570's.

'The Garden,' as it's known in the trade, is now home to diamond dealers, stone setters, tool suppliers, goldsmiths, polishers, jewellery retailers, metal merchants and a host of other tradespeople too numerous to mention. The tall town houses that line the streets of the area are rabbit warrens within which tiny workshops are hidden behind high security doors. If you are in the know you can buy a mount in one room, cross the corridor to select a diamond, have it set next door and polished on another floor and be home in time for tea. And I know because I often spent my working days negotiating my way through the door buzzers, smiling for the CCTV cameras and signing myself in and out of these places.

The most bizarre place in my experience was the Diamond Bourse at 100 Hatton Garden, where I once collected a diamond the size of my fist - well ok that is a slight exaggeration but it was pretty big. Following a grilling from reception and several phone calls later, I was issued with an ID pass and buzzed through the floor to ceiling turnstiles. After taking several wrong turns along the way (another maze), I met a man who appeared from behind a reinforced door and sat me down at a viewing table. There I checked the gem under a lamp and signed for possession. It made me feel incredibly uneasy. With it now being my responsibility I left the building - an equally difficult experience - with a heightened awareness of the security guards patrolling the area. They sit in their vans monitoring the street and hang about wearing head-sets, all dressed in black - you'll notice them now I've told you. I felt safe until I reached the tube, but could never help feeling that someone might have followed me. Fortunately no-one ever did.

Ely Palace

Christopher Hatton

Hatton Garden today. Can you spot the security guard?

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Betsey Johnson

2011-06-02T04:44:00.000-07:00

If ever there was a designer I'd love to meet it would be New Yorker, Betsey Johnson. Eccentric, exuberant, fabulous and fun - words that could be used to describe the designer herself, her life and her amazing body of work.

In 1964 and at the tender age of 23, Johnson landed the job of top designer at the hippest boutique on the block, Paraphernalia. Her designs were sold alongside those of Mary Quant and Paco Rabanne and her collections were an absolute celebration of the times. Hippy-inspired, fresh and floaty, bold and colourful, they stood in stark contrast to the monochrome Mod look of the mid-sixties and she soon became part of the fashion/art scene. Edie Sedgwick, wild-child and starlet of Andy Warhol's movies, became her muse and Johnson began hanging out with his crowd at The Factory. In 1967 she married John Cale of The Velvet Underground (divorcing him four years later), after having dresssed him both on and off stage. I know this woman has stories to tell.

Since setting up her own label in 1978 she has famously finished her runway shows by cartwheeling down the catwalk - a tradition she keeps up to this day despite being in her sixties. Her jewellery line was not added until recent years but already she has received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Accessories Council. Her colourful, quirky collections are not for the shrinking violet but are ever so wearable and if you ever wanted a statement piece you need look no further. Enamelled skulls, feathers and rhinestones, multi-chains and full-on embellishment - what's not to love? OK, some may say they are slightly on the trashy side but I would prefer to call them kitsch.

Betsey Johnson is as relevant today as she's ever been; a strong, successful woman and a true survivor with 65 stores worldwide. In London we are lucky enough to access her whole jewellery collection at her Covent Garden store. See you there!

Betsey Johnson wearing her own design (2009).

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Remember Me?

2011-05-14T11:57:00.000-07:00

This blog is dedicated to my Grandma, who would have recently celebrated her 100th birthday had she not sadly passed away nine years ago.

I have a locket that belonged to my Grandma, Lily. It is small and unpretentious, just as she was and has a star etched deeply into the gold case. The loop at the top has long since snapped off, rendering it unwearable and it is empty (she never could get it open). It now lives in a trinket box that also belonged to her, on the mantelpiece in my bedroom. Every now and again I think about repairing it, engraving her initials on the back, placing a photo of her inside and resurrecting it as a memorial piece. Not in a macabre way, but in the style of the Victorians who regularly commemorated the loss of a loved one with specially commissioned jewellery.

When Lillian Matthews was born on 1st May 1911, Queen Victoria had been dead for ten years. With her died the extraordinary cult of mourning, initiated by Victoria's grief for Prince Albert and resulting in a widely followed formal dress-code for the bereaved that spanned forty years. The monarchy at that time was extremely influential and so with high infant mortality rates and short life expectancy in general, like their Queen, Victorian's spent much of their lives wearing black. Mourning or memorial jewellery was the only form of adornment deemed appropriate and was worn as a symbol of remembrance. Hair taken from the deceased was often a feature of mourning jewellery, either contained in a locket, under crystal as the centre-piece of a brooch or ring or braided to make an entire bracelet. Really. And yes, it looked every bit as revolting as it sounds.

There is a second-hand dealer in Hatton Garden (the jewellery quarter in London), that fills his window with all manner of antique jewellery. For the life of me I cannot pass that shop without stopping to press my nose up against the glass. Dusty velvet pads display a plethora of precious items from every era imaginable. But one in particular always catches my eye. It is usually tucked away near the back and I have strain to see it. Peeping out from this pad are the Victorian mourning rings. Often featuring black enamel, onyx, seed pearls and gold inscriptions, you may have seen them before but not realised what they were. In my opinion they really are worth a closer look. I once did exactly that and went in to try one on. The one I picked out was a fairly typical example; gold with a black enamelled band and oval bezel bearing the initials of the deceased, surrounded in stark contrast by tiny white pearls. I somehow felt uncomfortable as I admired the piece, as if I was gawping too long at an extremely personal possession - a reason I am told why they rarely sell. With an overwhelming sense of melancholy I wondered who it had been made for and how it had ended up there. That ring must have been of immense sentimental value to someone in the past, just as my Grandma's locket is to me now.

I can't help feeling that wearing mourning jewellery offered great comfort and was the perfect way of remembering a family member as it passed from one generation to another. It is a tradition that I am sad we have lost. So perhaps I will transform the locket after all, in memory of a lovely lady that I met when I was already nine years old but always treated me as her own.

Enamelled gold mourning ring with seed pearls.

Gold mourning brooch with seed pearls containing hair.

Hairwork bracelet

Enamelled mourning bands and ring containing hair.

Initialled locket

Mourning brooch containing hair.

Hairwork set.

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Crowning Glory

2011-05-03T07:24:00.000-07:00

By far the most amazing collection of gem-set jewellery I have ever laid my eyes on has to have been at the Tiara's exhibition at the Victoria & Albert Museum back in 2002. Not ever having been a huge fan of diamonds before - to the point where I don't even have one in my engagement ring - I was surprised to find my mouth agape. Over 200 pieces were shown in a spectacular display of wealth and privilege and it has to be said that yes, they did make an impact on me. The scale of a tiara alone determines that a fair few stones are needed for the simplest of circlets, but many were embellished to eye-popping extremes. The effect they had on their audience was quite astonishing too. Besides being at a popular jumble sale, never had I before experienced being elbowed out of the way quite so blatantly, as women jostled for prime position. Standing mesmerised at the display cases and stumbling, bedazzled around the darkened room each imagined (I expect) how it would feel to wear such an item. I know I did.

With the history of jewellery being an obsession of mine, I was also fascinated to learn who each of these enviable pieces belonged to and when they had been worn. The sepia photographs beside them provided a rare glimpse into the past. Often they had been in the family vault for generations and were only brought out on the occasion of a wedding. Brides are the perfect foil for a tiara. On no other head do they sit more perfectly. Sparkling seductively beneath a veil, to then be revealed in all their glory on the return trip up the ailse when all eyes are upon them. Not being fortunate enough to own such an heirloom myself but loving the look all the same, I had my florist make me a floral tiara that matched my bouquet. A happier alternative I thought than to wearing a cheap replica and fitting that adorning the head with fresh flowers was where the origins of the tiara lay. Victorian newly weds were crowned with myrtle to symbolise fidelity, purity and marital bliss and it has long been associated with love and the godesses Aphrodite and Venus.

One young lady that had no shortage of tiara's to choose from for her recent marriage to Prince William was Kate Middleton. Instead she used myrtle in her bouquet. The sprig had been taken from a plant that was grown along the terrace walls at Osborne House by Queen Victoria, from a piece of her own wedding bouquet. It has been traditional for royal brides to carry a cutting from it ever since. When Kate arrived at Westminster Abbey however, my attention was focused firmly on her head. Contrary to speculation she wore the stunning Cartier Halo, made in 1936 and originally given to Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother by her husband The Duke of York just three weeks before he became King George VI. Queen Elizabeth II received it as an eighteenth birthday present but did not to wear it on her wedding day, choosing instead the 1830 Russian Fringe Tiara also worn by her mother (who had then borrowed it from Queen Mary). The Princess Royal also wore it when she married Captain Mark Phillips in 1973 so it is understandable that many expected Kate to follow suit. One person being so convinced that they bet £6000 on it. Lucky Ladbrokes.

Perhaps it will not be too long before the new Duchess of Cambridge has a tiara of her own. The aptly named Cambridge Lovers Knot Tiara was the Queen's wedding gift to Diana Spencer when she married Prince Charles in 1981 (although Diana wore the Spencer-family tiara to her wedding). Made in 1913 by the then Crown Jeweller, Garrard & Co and commissioned by Queen Mary, it was based on an earlier tiara of the same name that was owned by her maternal grandmother Princess Augusta of Hesse-Cassel, the Duchess of Cambridge, and subsequently by her aunt, Princess Augusta of Cambridge, the Grand Duchess of Mecklenburg-Strelitz. When Queen Mary died she left it to her granddaughter Queen Elizabeth II, who wore it for many formal occasions before giving it to Princess Diana. After her divorce from the Prince of Wales the tiara was returned, so maybe sometime soon Kate will not only be wearing her late mother-in-law's engagement ring but her one-time tiara too.

Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge
wearing The Cartier Halo Tiara.

The Queen Mother, Queen Elizabeth II and The Princess Royal
wearing The Russian Fringe Tiara.

Diana Spencer
wearing The Spencer Tiara.

Queen Mary
wearing The Cambridge Lovers Knot Tiara.

Princess Augusta of Cambridge
wearing the original Cambridge Lovers Knot Tiara.

Myrtle

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Take Me To My Beach

2011-04-24T17:02:00.000-07:00

Anyone who knows me well will know that it was only a matter of time before I mentioned the I word. As May fast approaches my attention inevitably wanders toward the White Isle where the opening parties will mark the start of another glorious summer. Ibiza is truly a magical place. A tiny slice of heaven where hedonists rule and everyone is beautiful, man.

Happily with a change of season comes a change of wardrobe and as soon as swimwear hits the shops, I hit the plastic. My advise is to buy it quick as the best pieces always sell out fast and grab a size larger than your dress size (way more flattering and less likely to cause obscene bulges). So with lashings of lycra Ibiza-ready, I realise once more that I have a whole lot of accessorizing to do.

I have a dedicated beach-jewellery box. Yes, really. Each year there is a special moment when I know the time has come to bring it out. Opening it up feels like unlocking a treasure chest dredged up from the sea. The jewellery within is always dusty with sand and tarnished with sea salt, ready for the annual clean-up and mend. Some pieces I own remind me of a place I have visited. Beach-side boutiques often being the best place to purchase a piece of jewellery, which then doubles up as a keepsake. Other pieces I have made myself and greet like old friends.

There are rules for wearing jewellery on the beach. For example, it is wise to remove any gold or silver rings. Soft metals can get very scratched by the fine grains of sand and cause them to appear dull. I never remove my wedding band/engagement ring combo but always get them polished after my holiday - not a great expense and worth doing now and then anyway. A jeweller I once worked for offered newly-weds a complimentary ring re-polish after their honeymoons for this very reason. Silver jewellery may also become tarnished by exposure to sea water, but it is easily removed with a silver cloth. I would avoid wearing any base metals (non precious) as these will almost certainly blacken and leave you covered in mucky marks.

Another less practical rule that is down to my own personal taste is not to wear bling on the beach. Rhinestones/crystals/diamante are an absolute no-no. They catch the sun way too much and will light you up like a Christmas tree. Save them for the dance floor. Instead think ethnic, think hippy and think natural materials. A simple shark's tooth pendant is far more effective on the beach.

Favourites from my own collection include a necklace made from large, deep turquoise 'chips' - stunning with a white bikini and only needs a rinse to keep it looking new - a silver anklet that jangles with sea shells and pretty pearls and a bunch of braided leather bracelets, easily packed and fab when stacked. Semi precious stretch bracelets are another great option.

For those of you bothered by the possibility of jewellery-shaped tan marks, chill out. Get yourself a spray tan and slap on the factor 40. Then sit at the bar and save your skin. It's far more fun than frying.

Coral necklace @ Pebble London

Kate Moss shows us how it's done

Turquoise necklace by Elizabeth Showers @ Kabiri

The Beckham's both rock the look

Shell bracelet @ Pebble London

Jade Jagger, Ibiza beach bunny

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The Golden Goose

2011-04-13T11:18:00.000-07:00

There was a time when it was considered perfectly normal to invest in gold. I'm not talking about millionaires here buying bullion by the brick, but your average working man. People were often suspicious of banks and rather than saving money in a biscuit tin under the bed, they would buy jewellery instead. This allowed a loved one to enjoy an expensive item while at the same time knowing that if they ever hit hard times they could sell it. When it came to the crunch however the only problem was parting with the much loved item. But long gone are the days when you could guarantee a good return on your gold and what happens when the offer made is less than the price paid?

My father bought a few 'investment' pieces for my mother but I am relieved to say that although there were times after his death when I know we could have done with the cash, after all that is what they were for, she managed to keep hold of her cherished jewellery. The sentimental value given the circumstances greatly outweighed the monetary value and those items are now my only link to my heritage. Besides a moth-eaten silk scarf, a few old photo's and his leather wallet they are all I have to remember him by. Jewellery as an heirloom is unlike any other item. When other things are lost or misplaced over the years, jewellery will always have been looked after and by wearing it we can somehow feel a closer connection to a long-lost relation. Just knowing that he chose them himself and handled those objects gives me great comfort and allows me precious insight into his taste and generosity. My father loved jewellery and I like to believe it is from him that my interest stems.

When strapped for cash, selling the family jewels would always be a last resort and pawnbroking was often seen as a more attractive solution. That way the value of the piece could be released as a cash loan and once repaid (with interest of course), it would then be returned to its rightful owner. In late ninteenth-century England there were as many pawnbrokers as there were pubs and although they are not as prevelant today, many high street jewellers are offering this service. In times of economic down-turn pawnbroking enjoys new growth and when jewellery sales slump how else will they survive? Contrary to popular belief the pawnbroker will not sell your goods for his own profit. If at the end of the agreed term the item has not been redeemed it will then be sold, the loan and interest retained and the remaining profit returned to the owner. My only cause for concern is that they may sell for less than the market value to achieve a quick sale.

Buying gold has also become big business over the past few years with many companies urging us to post off our unwanted or broken jewellery items in their pre-paid envelopes. The service they offer varies, but the jewellery is valued by weight and in my opinion any company that will not state how much they pay per gram is hiding an unfavourable deal. They often give you a total price for all of your jewellery without providing you with this information, so make sure you get your jewellery weighed before you send it so you can work it out for yourself. Any local jeweller will provide this service. And shop around. I popped into a high street store where they were offering £6 per gram on 9ct gold. With only a small amount of research on the internet I discovered a company buying at £10.40 and that may not be the best price out there. I once worked in a shop that doubled their money on every transaction but profit margins vary from place to place and therefore so will their offers. As a rule of thumb 18ct gold should be roughly double the price so make sure you know what you're selling too.

Lastly I urge you, if you ever do find yourself in need, think long and hard before parting with your precious items. That necklace that weighs next to nothing and barely buys you anything may bring someone immense joy in the future.

Me, wearing a Topaz cocktail ring given to my mother by my father circa 1969

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A Charmed Life

2011-04-06T11:56:00.000-07:00

When I think back about the very first pieces of jewellery I ever owned, the item that remains the most precious in my memory is my beloved silver charm bracelet. I received it around my ninth birthday and it came complete with obligatory ballet shoe charm. I simply could not wait to fill up the empty links and looked forward to choosing each new addition with anticipation. Each Christmas and birthday I would be allowed to select a charm from the tray on display in the jewellery shop window and I remember clearly that it was far from an easy decision.

I eventually chose a kitten with a ball of wool, a horse shoe, a sailing ship and a crown set with gemstones, but my favourite by far was a garden shed. Weird I know. But the shed had a secret revealed only when the roof was tipped open on its tiny hinge. Hiding inside was a perfectly proportioned miniature lawn mower. At the risk of sounding slighty unhinged myself, I loved to play with it so much that I wore out the catch and the shed now hangs permanently open!

Many others now in their thirties will have similar memories to mine, the charm bracelet being so popular in the 1970's, but the history of the charm bracelet goes way further back than that. Examples have been found in Ancient Egyptian tombs and would have been worn as amulets to protect from evil. Talisman have been carried throughout history to bring good luck and protect the wearer, but it was Queen Victoria who popularised the charm bracelet for aesthetic purposes alone. She herself wore a bracelet of lockets containing family portraits and soon European nobility began to follow suit. It has enjoyed a number of revivals over the years but I believe it has and always will remain a staple of any jewellery box.

The charm bracelet today comes in many forms but the essence remains the same. Each wearer filling it up according to their taste and the beauty being that no two are the same. My daughter delighted in choosing charms for her 'Lovelinks' bracelet (much like 'Pandora'), a modern version of the classic where the charms are threaded onto a snake-chain like beads, dispensing with the traditional jump-ring-on-link attachment.

So whichever you choose, modern or classic, why not start your collection today? I guarantee it will be unique, admired and totally addictive. Or be cute and just cheat and buy one complete!

Betsey Johnson

Les Nereides

Mikey

Tatty Devine

Juicy Couture

Pandora

Lovelinks

Juicy Couture

Juicy Couture

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Size Does Matter

2011-03-26T16:31:00.000-07:00

R.I.P. Elizabeth Taylor; movie star, mother, serial bride and jewellery lover. Owner of the most exquisite collection of fine jewellery owned by an individual and author of coffee table treat, 'Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry.' The title says it all.

Liz Taylor enjoyed wearing the kind of jewellery that usually spends much of its life in a vault, albeit whilst surrounded by body guards when she did. But she led an enviably glamorous life and often had the occassion to wear it. She also happened to have been a very beautiful, successful young actress at a time when men really did display their wealth and affection by offering up a few 'baubles' as Richard Burton, husband no. 5 and 6 called them. Yes, she married him twice, perhaps because his were amongst the most impressive. She was after all quoted as saying, "Size does matter, but so does the size of the emotion behind it." A whopping example of his emotion was the 69.42-carat, pear-shaped diamond ring he presented her with in 1969 after a bidding war that was won initially by Cartier. He persuaded them to part with it a day later by paying a breathtaking $1.1million. $50,000 more than they had aquired it for. Not bad for a day's work. Being an inch thick, the flawless diamond was really too large for a ring and so Taylor asked Cartier to design a necklace to suspend it from. The necklace was completed in time for her to wear it to Princess Grace's 40th birthday - I know, told you she was glam. It became known as the Taylor-Burton diamond.

On her own 40th Taylor received from Burton the heart-shaped Taj Mahal Diamond, circa 1627, surrounded with red stones and a grey jade mount suspended on a long woven gold chain. The diamond was originally a gift from the Mughal Emperor Shah-Jahan to his favourite wife Mumtaz-I-Mahal, in whose memory The Taj Mahal was built.

Another of his presents was the enormous Le Peregrina Pearl. Incredibly this had once belonged to Queen Mary Tudor (Bloody Mary), after she received it on her wedding day from her husband Prince Philip II of Spain. It has a fascinating history worthy of a whole blog of its own.

In her book, Taylor acknowledges the immense historical value of her collection and says, "I'm fortunate to have some very important pieces of jewelry. I don't believe I own any of the pieces. I believe that I am their custodian, here to enjoy them, to give them the best treatment in the world, to watch after their safety, and to love them." However, Taylor did sell some pieces to raise money for projects close to her heart. The Taylor-Burton Diamond was sold to fund the building of a hospital in Botswana and the emerald and diamond engagement ring given to her by Richard Burton, was sold at an auction for The Elizabeth Taylor AIDS Foundation. She told the crowd, "Please know that it is not easy for me to give it away. It is only my commitment to AIDS that persuaded me to let it go. My love is inside that ring forever."

It is not known what will become of this astounding collection now that Taylor has died. I do hope though that wherever it ends up, it will be cared for, looked after and cherished as much it was in her life-time.

Taj Mahal Diamond

Elizabeth Taylor wearing the Taylor-Burton Diamond

La Peregrina Pearl. Necklace by Cartier.

Portrait of Queen Mary Tudor wearing La Peregrina Pearl by Hans Eworth

My next birthday present?

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Get The Balance Right

2011-03-18T14:42:00.000-07:00

Being a new mum again (after 10 years!) has made me question my world. How I think, feel, behave and what I believe. And that’s just for starters. The act of child-birth is so overwhelmingly life-altering, even second time around, that it is bound to have a dramatic impact on how we live our lives. And wanting to be the best parent we can be for our perfect new person is only natural.

I happened to stumble across a book in my local library, while looking for a new selection of ‘lift the flaps’ for baby, that a like-minded mother had probably perused and left there while her toddler de-alphabetised the section. Buddhism for Mothers by Sarah Napthali. It described how I was feeling so accurately that I actually cried. I cannot put it down. So with my mind occupied with the noble eightfold path and my baby pushing eight months old, it was time to brush the dust off my yoga mat and sort out my body.

Yoga for me is like an addiction, the more I do, the more I want to do more. Opening my Chakras in a candle-lit hall is as thrilling for me as a trip to Tiffany. So how excited do you think I was to find I could combine the two? Well not a trip to Tiffany, but jewellery none the less.

After suffering from a serious stomach condition that involved him taking a massive amount of medication each day, James Boyd of Daisy Jewellery turned instead to meditation and found a cure through unblocking his energy. Eastern teachings describe Chakras (Sanskrit for “wheels”) as spinning circular centres of energy located along the spine. There are seven main Chakras and each relates to a major organ, gland, emotion, physical disfunction and psychological function. To have them in balance is to have physical and spiritual well-being. Boyd explains that they can “open and close in response to our physical lives.” His collection of Chakra bracelets he says are intended “to aid mental and physical alignment”. They come in the seven vibrational colours associated with each Chakra and can provide a focus for meditation or perhaps just remind us of where we need to draw our attention. Either way, I hope to be joining Cheryl Cole, Sienna Miller and Kanye West in wearing one this summer. Best worn on sun-kissed skin and perfect for the beach, regardless of their meaning they are undeniably cool. Which one will you choose?

Base Chakra

Brow Chakra

Crown Chakra

Heart Chakra

Sacral Chakra

Solar Plexus Chakra

Throat Chakra

Available from http://www.daisyjewellery.com/

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Tom Binns

2011-03-10T15:43:00.000-08:00

If you have never seen the work of jeweller Tom Binns I promise you it is going to blow your mind. I cannot even begin to describe how much I love this designer. His work needs no hype it just truly is the most eccentric, glamorous and incredible costume jewellery in the world. “Jewellery is always a treasure, and though it may not be made of gold and diamonds, it should still have that sentiment,” says Binns. I couldn’t agree more. It is not just materials that make a piece precious, but the circumstances in which it is given, the person it reminds us of and the memories we have of wearing it.

Over the past 25 years Binns collections have been continually inspired by the early twentieth century Dada movement, amongst whose themes were deliberate irrationality, anarchy, and the rejection of standard beauty and social organisation, so it comes as no surprise to learn that his earliest collaboration was with Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm Maclaren on their ‘Punkature’ collection.

Since those days in the early eighties Binns has garnered a cult following and his jewellery is becoming increasingly collectable. Fans are as diverse as Michelle Obama and Lady Gaga and just check out Britney Spears in her recent music video for ‘Hold It Against Me’. She’s dripping in it.

As a designer myself I know that the ‘thrown together' look that Binns so effortlessly achieves is beyond difficult to assemble. The eclectic explosion is organised chaos in the extreme and what looks like a happy accident actually comes down to technical wizardry. The result is elegant and edgy all at once. A dramatic tangle of creative genius. I’m hooked, how about you?

Britney Spears wearing Tom Binns

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All Hail the High Street?

2011-03-05T05:09:00.000-08:00

And so I begin my first blog ever...to share with you my love and knowledge of jewellery and maybe discover more about it myself along the way.

When buying jewellery on the high street as most of us tend to do, whether it is to accessorise a new look or update an old favourite, how many of us realise that these mass produced items, fresh from the factories of the Far East, once started life as the brainchild of a high-end designer? As we all know fashion filters down from catwalk to high street, but how many of us realise that the jewellery industry works in much the same way? With a little knowledge and good fortune we can pick up a high street version of a must-have designer item for a fraction of the price and smugly achieve the same look without breaking the bank. Sure the diamonds are replaced by crystals and of course the pearls are now plastic but the essence of the original remains the same. Doesn’t it?

On a personal level I feel slightly uneasy when I see what can only be described as a direct copy of a designer item being hawked on the high street, but others may jump for joy at such a find. Having had personal experience as a jewellery designer at a high street supplier I can say with authority that we were actively encouraged to browse various websites, select our ‘inspiration’ and then blatantly copy it. But once stripped of the costly materials and workmanship that made it truly special, what remained was often a very pale imitation. I only lasted 4 weeks.

Personally given an unlimited budget I would go for the designer item every time. More fabulous in every way than its high street hybrid, a high quality piece to cherish, collect and pass on to my daughters would always be my choice but let’s face it, most of us make do with what we can afford and in the current climate this may be less than ever before. So if fashion is not to be an exclusive club attended only by the wealthy, but a vibrant, enriching, happy place where women from all walks of life can meet and express their individuality maybe there needs to be room for both. So in true Gok Wan style, take a peek at my DESIGNER V’S HIGH STREET. Which do you prefer?

LUCY HUTCHINGS @ LIBERTY £325 ACCESSORIZE £9.00

ISHARYA @ LIBERTY £530 ACCESSORIZE £12

OSCAR DE LA RENTA @ NET-A PORTER £850 RIVER ISLAND £24.99

RINGS ECLECTIC £90 TOPSHOP £12.50

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